How to wash Halloween fake blood, makeup and prop stains? The pitfalls I hit so you don't have to, all explained at once

How to wash Halloween fake blood, makeup, and props stains? I'll explain the pitfalls I've hit, all at once

Every year on the morning of November 1st, I do the same thing: stand in front of the washing machine, holding a witch robe covered in fake blood and foundation, thinking can this thing be saved

One year, to save trouble, I threw a white shirt with fake blood into the washing machine and chose hot water, that shirt is still pink to this day, another year, my vampire cape got paint on it, and I scrubbed hard with a wet wipe, only to find the stain spread three times larger because I rubbed the paint into the fibers

So this piece is to explain all the lessons I've paid for over the years at once, spend five minutes reading it, and you can save at least one of your favorite costumes, plus a rug

First thing: remember this golden rule, it can save 90% of stains

Cold water, always cold water, treat immediately

Hot water will set almost all Halloween stains, the red dye in fake blood, face paint pigments, glue residue, when they meet hot water they lock permanently into the fibers, and no washing will get them out, I know you really want to use hot water to scald and disinfect, resist

If you can't wash it right away, at least rinse the stained area with cold water within a few hours, do this step, and every method after will double in effect, skip it, and every method after is discounted

Second principle: blot, don't rub, rubbing pushes the dye deep into the fibers and spreads the stain, use a clean cloth or paper towel, dip it in cold water, and press it onto the stain, let the cloth absorb the liquid, not your hand smearing it

Fake blood: the easiest to wash, and the easiest to ruin

Fake blood sounds scary, but it's actually the easiest of all Halloween stains to deal with, as long as you use the right method

Most commercial fake blood is water-soluble, mainly red dye and corn syrup, that means it dissolves in water, unlike oil paint which seeps into fibers

Fake blood on clothes:

Rinse immediately with cold water, then apply dish soap (the degreasing kind like Dawn, not mild hand soap) directly to the stain, gently rub it in with your fingers, and let it sit for 10 minutes, then rinse with cold water, blot dry, and wash normally

For white clothes, you can use hydrogen peroxide or an OxiClean paste (OxiClean powder mixed with cold water into a thick paste), apply it and wait 30 minutes before rinsing, hydrogen peroxide has a mild bleaching effect, safe for white fabrics, but don't use it on dark or colored clothes, it will fade them

A real experience: I once applied fake blood too thick and let it dry overnight before washing, the red dye seeped into the cotton fibers, and after three washes there was still a faint pink mark, once fake blood dries, its adhesion increases greatly, so never wait until the next day

Fake blood on rugs and sofas:

Blot, don't rub, use a clean white cloth to absorb the surface liquid, then spray soda water and keep blotting until the stain disappears, if any residue remains, mix a few drops of dish soap with a cup of cold water, dip a cloth and gently press, finally sprinkle baking soda to absorb moisture, wait 10 minutes and vacuum it up

One detail a friend tested: someone used fake blood on a white shirt and it came clean after one normal wash but another person applied it too thick, let it dry before washing, and the red still left a faint stain; thickness determines difficulty, a thin layer washes out easily, a thick layer is hard to wash out

Makeup and face paint: oil-based and water-based, two completely different sets of rules

Halloween makeup comes in two types: water-based and oil-based; removal methods are completely different

Water-based face paint, such as Snazaroo: relatively easy to wash out; apply liquid laundry detergent directly to the stain, gently rub it in with your fingers, then wash with cold water

Oil-based face paint, such as greasepaint sticks, oil-based foundation, and theatrical makeup: this is the truly difficult kind; oil-based pigments seep into fibers and regular laundry detergent cannot handle them

The right method: dip a cotton pad in rubbing alcohol and gently dab it on the stain, do not rub; alcohol dissolves oil-based pigments; then wash once with cold water and regular laundry detergent; if you do not have alcohol, micellar water, which is makeup remover, also works; cleaning experts have specifically recommended this method, saying it works on foundation, eyeshadow, and eyeliner stains and is gentle on fabric

Liquid foundation and lipstick: if the stain has already dried, first use the back of a spoon to scrape off the caked-on makeup on the surface; then apply dish soap, which has strong grease-cutting power, to the stain and rub, then wash with cold water

A trick many people do not know: oxygen bleach is especially effective on makeup stains; it is not chlorine bleach and will not harm color; mix oxygen bleach with cold water into a paste, apply it to the stain, let it sit for 6 hours, then wash

Glitter and glue: physical removal matters more than chemical dissolving

Glitter is the kind of thing that seems harmless but will actually follow you until Christmas

Glitter on clothes and carpets: a vacuum and a lint roller are the first step; vacuum once, then use a lint roller to pick up the remaining glitter; if any is left, use masking tape to pick it up bit by bit; do not wipe with a wet cloth, because a wet cloth will make glitter stick to the fabric and then spread again somewhere else

Glitter on hard surfaces: Play-Doh is a hidden secret weapon; press Play-Doh onto the glittery area, and the glitter will stick into the Play-Doh

Spirit Gum, fake mustache glue and fake nose glue: when this stuff gets on clothes it hardens into a sticky lump; alcohol is its nemesis; dip a cotton pad in alcohol, place it on the glue lump, wait 5 minutes for it to dissolve, then gently scrape it off with a butter knife or the edge of a credit card; if the garment is dark, first test in a corner whether alcohol will fade the color

A low-cost alternative: put the clothing with spirit gum on it into a freezer bag and freeze it for a few hours; the glue will become brittle, and then you can just snap it off

Wax and silly string: two kinds of stains that seem hopeless but actually are not

Candle wax: if wax drips on a tablecloth or clothing, do not rush to pick it off; soak the clothing in hot water so the wax melts and floats to the surface, then wait for the water to cool; the wax will solidify into one piece, and you can just take it out; if any residue remains, place a paper towel over the wax stain and iron over it with a warm iron, and the paper towel will absorb the wax

Silly String: This stuff gets on fabric and carpet and is harder to deal with than it looks. First let it dry completely, then scrape off the dried strands with a credit card or plastic scraper. For the remaining stains, blot with cold water and dish soap. If the stain has already soaked in, soak it overnight in white vinegar before washing—it works much better than washing directly.

Three ironclad "never do" rules

First, don't use hot water. Fake blood, body paint, and makeup will "weld" onto fibers when they hit hot water. Cold water is your best friend after Halloween.

Second, don't use the dryer until you're sure the stain is completely gone. The heat from the dryer will permanently set any remaining faint marks. After washing, take a look in natural light to make sure there are no traces, then dry.

Third, don't use alcohol or hydrogen peroxide on silk, satin, or clothes with sequin decorations. These things can damage the fabric or make the decorations fall off. Send these clothes to the dry cleaner—don't risk it yourself.

The fun of Halloween is at night, the pain is the next morning. But if you remember these three words—"cold water, blot, immediately"—your costume and your carpet will both live to see next year.